Change the properties of appropriate artists. For example, to change the color of the ticklabels:

ax.axis["left"].major_ticklabels.set_color("r")
Same as the original Matplotlib's axes:

ax.set_xticks([1, 2, 3])
To change the attributes of multiple axis:

ax.axis["left", "bottom"].major_ticklabels.set_color("r")
or to change the attributes of all axis:

ax.axis[:].major_ticklabels.set_color("r")

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